Friday, 8 March 2013

Evaluation

For my last post on this project I wanted to write a brief evaluation. 
I have enjoyed this project quite a lot really, the thing I found most challenging was getting going with this project because I didn't know where to start but once I got going I began to notice and think about different things I could explore. I found it interesting looking at all the different reference points we could find (for example how Dickens created his characters) and developing my final looks. 
I am overall happy with my final looks/photos and they portray what I wanted them to, the only issue I had was that the lighting for the Estella shoot was a bit too bright and so made the black eye a bit less obvious and the colour work for the black eye (it mainly affected the yellows and greens I used) doesn't show very well, however because this would be filmed in HD for HDTV there wouldn't be this problem because it would be more detailed and so more realistic. 
So I guess that't it, another project over.. time for the next one!

Thursday, 7 March 2013

Final images for Miss Havisham









Final Images for Estella











"Love her, love her, love her"

""Love her, love her, love her!  How does
she use you?""

""Love her, love her, love her!  If
she favours you, love her.  If she wounds you, love her.  If she
tears your heart to pieces ­ and as it gets older and stronger, it
will tear deeper ­ love her, love her, love her!""


""Hear me, Pip!  I adopted her to be loved.  I bred her and educated
her, to be loved.  I developed her into what she is, that she might
be loved.  Love her!""

(all from chapter 29, page 180)

In my first post on this blog I said that i had named my blog "Love her, love her, love her" because I had found it an interesting poignant repeated line in the book, bu I have come to realise over the course of this project that it completely fits with my concept of Miss Havisham living her life through Estella now she has been deprived of her own life. The quote now means more to me and has become even more poignant because I think Miss Havisham repeated it and desperately wanted Pip to love Estella so much not just so she could break his heart but so she could feel loved through Estella now that she couldn't feel loved herself.. It's all fallen into place!

Styling

I tried to style my looks to the best I could but keeping to quite a tight budget, luckily I realised I already had quite a few things I could use..

Estella
For the styling of Estella I picked a vintage black lace evening dress that I already had. I decided upon it because I wanted her to be wearing black because it was quite a somber and mysterious colour which suited her and it also had quite a Victorian neckline. I also chose to use some vintage purple dangly earrings because they fit with the rich colours of the Victorian era and I also thought they could have been a gift from Miss Havisham because Estella is her prize possession. I didn't want to use a necklace or hair accessories too because I see her character as being neat and tidy and elegant so it wouldn't have fitted for her to have lots of accessories.

Miss Havisham
To style Miss Havisham I found a high neck lace top (to look like a wedding dress in the photo), I thought this worked because I feel that lace is generally associated with younger people because you can see through it so by having it on an older woman I could show that she was young when she first got into it but she hasn't taken it off. I also chose for her to wear a thin shawl and a veil with a trim, this is to complete the wedding look, I also dirtied the veil and made sure nothing was too white so that it looked realistically old and worn. I also thought that the vale could show how she is hiding behind the image of her marriage and how she is desperately trying to hang on to the memories. I will use a prop for this look which will be a dead bouquet of flowers, they are very authentic because they are my bridesmaids flowers from my sisters wedding about 6 years ago! The flowers will not only be part of her hanging on to the memories but they will also represent how she is deteriorating, is fragile, is just holding her structure but also was once very beautiful.

Products lists

Here are the lists of products I will use for the two looks:
Estella’s look :
Face –
Illamasqua satin primer
Illamasqua and Screenface foundations
Illamasqua blusher in ‘Disobey’ & ‘Rude’
Illamasqua loose powder
Eyes –
Screenface concealer palette
Kryolan Supracolour
Maybelline Colossal Volum’ mascara
Screenface eyeshadow palette
Lips –
Screenface lip palette

Miss Havisham’s look :
Face –
Illamasqua matte primer
Illamasqua and Screenface foundations
Illamasqua blusher in ‘Disobey’
Illamasqua loose powder
Eyes –
Screenface concealer palette
Kryolan Supracolour
Screenface eyeshadow palette
Lips –
Screenface lip palette
Liquid Latex

I didn't realise until i had compiled this list but I'm going to use a lot of the same products for both looks. This might seem odd as the looks are so different, but the difference is that I use the products for different reasons and I use the same palettes to start from and then blend my own colours depending on what I need for that look.

Context for my characters

Just a brief overview of how i would see my looks coming alive if they were going to be used for a production.
Who?
I would have Emma Watson or Olivia Wilde playing my Estella because they are both young, have dark hair and have the right face and slightly something behind the eyes look which my look requires.

Playing Miss Havisham I would have either Dame Judy Dench or Dame Helen Mirren (if she hadn't dyed her hair pink recently!) because they are both about the right age, have grey hair and are good at expressive acting.

Where?
My looks would be used for an HDTV production of 'Great Expectations', maybe one that shows Estella and Miss Havisham in a more in-depth/personal way. Because of the famous Actors and Actresses and budget restrictions it would only be a 4 part series, but detailed none the less.

Audience?
My audience would be families because it is interesting/suitable for all ages, people who know and love the story well might appreciate it more though because of its slightly different in-depth/personal take. The famous faces will also help attract lots of different people from all ages to watch.

On-Set?
The make up would be able to be done pretty much anywhere on set however extension leads or plug will be needed for the curlers etc. A lot of attention will have to be payed to continuity of the looks and modifying them to fit the story as it progresses. The budget for hair, make up and styling would have to be pretty decent because quite a lot of make up is used although the make up for the looks is pretty similar.

BBC adaptation


I looked at a few adaptations of Great Expectations but found the BBC version the most inspirational, I really like the way they are portrayed and think its very effective. I also like that the looks aren't too over the top and in your face.
(p.s. finally realised how you can put youtube videos on here, it's taken long enough!) 

Model Choices

I really wanted to try and get the model right for this shoot because I feet it is particularly important for a character based make up that they fit the ages and looks I require, also they needed to have expressive eyes and know how to portray what I want with them!
        For my Estella I chose Sophie Wallace, she has the long brown hair, expressive big eyes, beautiful, pale look I need.
       For my Miss Havisham I chose Ewa Budny (ex-actress and my grandma) because she has the grey but not white hair, expressive eyes, still have an element of beauty to her (to show glimmers of how Miss Havisham used to be), looks the right age for my Miss Havisham and also knows how to give the look I want because of her acting.

Face chart for Miss Havisham


       Askew curls/rolls - This is the style she would have had on her wedding day and since then she had religiously repeated this style so much that it has just become force of habit and she does it automatically, causing it to be messy, uneven and disheveled. Also as she has become more frail she struggles to do her hair like she used to.
       Bun and curls at the back - Similar style to Estella as explained in the last post, the main difference is that Miss Havishams hair is a lot more messy and fluffy/unkept.
       Messy brows - Again because they have grown scuffy because she doesn't take care of them.
       Tired dark circles - She barely sleeps because of her constant emotional torment and stress she puts herself through.
       Wrinkles - I think her age is about 60 - 70 years old but she looks older because all the stress and lack of care over the years have caused her to age prematurely as well as natural ageing. Also the crying she would have done after being abandoned at the alter would have taken its toll on her skin even if she doesn't cry/show emotion now.
       Natural coloured, dry, chapped lips - The cold of the house and her lack of care for them has caused her lips to become dry and chapped.
       Very pale face - She hasn't seen daylight for years so her skin would be very pale but also quite clear because environmental factors have not had the chance to damage her face for the majority of her life.

Face chart for Estella



So this is my face chart for Estella, I tried really hard to try and dip my toes out of my comfort zone for this project and not use a face chart template, I'm still not sure about my feeling towards painting and drawing again but it serves its purpose for now!
         Centre Parting, bun and curls - I chose these because they were a classic victorian style, but mainly because i wanted Estella and Miss Havisham to have very similar hairstyles to show Miss Havishams influence on Estella and how she has taught her how to do her own hair like she would do hers.
         Plaits - I found that plaits tended to be worn by younger Victorian women so I felt that draped plaits would be good for Estella as a decorative element to the hair
         Strong brows - Because she has quite a stern look about her and a dark, strong brow helps to give that look.
         Tired but mysterious eyes - She would be tired because like her mother she has trouble sleeping because of all the stress she causes herself and because they are both always thinking. Her eyes should be mysterious because we don't see the true Estella we see her under Miss Havishams influence, i real her is trapped inside.
         Natural lips - I chose a natural lip colour because the Victorians didn't wear a lot of make-up (pretty much none) because it was seen to be something that prostitutes wore so they wouldn't want to be associated, however her lips have to have a slight colour because she is young so would have a bit more colour to her face naturally.
         Slight contouring - Just to add shape to the face but not enough that it is visibly make up.
         Black eye - To show the domestic abuse she suffered from Drummle, I want it to look like an old bruise because I don't think Miss Havisham would have let her be seen/would have brought her up to not let anyone see her like that.

Storyboard for Miss Havisham


Storyboard for Estella



Ageing


We learnt in our studio lesson about ageing techniques, we used mainly liquid latex and old age stipple but also tried incorporating some of the things we had learnt from Kate Benton. I decided I wanted to use the latex on the lips because I thought Miss Havisham would have dry peeling lips because she didn't care about them and the cold of the house would have taken their toll on them too. 
I tried layering the liquid latex on the lips and then teasing/pulling it a bit with my finger and a cotton bud, I then added slight colour to some areas to show the contrast between the lip and the peeling skin, lastly I dabbed on some loose powder to add to the dryness. Even though I plan on having an older model it was still interesting to learn how to age because it will still be very useful for my look, just in moderation.

Tuesday, 5 March 2013

Trial: Victorian hair


We tried out a few techniques for Victorian Hair so that we could design out Estella and Miss Havisham looks with some ideas in mind. The techniques we used were mid-buns, curls and rolls. unfortunately there weren't enough small curlers so I had to use big ones and on my models long hair they didn't work as well as small curlers would have done but I got the idea.
        It was interesting to see how different techniques suited different people and different hair types and also how much attention we had to pay to sectioning the hair off neatly. I found this a very helpful lesson because it got the ball rolling for hair designs for my look now I know how to do some key Victorian hair techniques.

Charles Dickens

Thought I'd have a look at the person behind the book and its characters, its author Charles Dickens. Here are some of the most interesting things I found:
  • He was an English writer and social critic who is regarded as the greatest novelists of the Victorian era.
  • Found fame in 1836 with 'The Pickwick Papers'.
  • Developed and published characters slowly so that he could get feedback from the readers about them as the story went on, giving his opportunity to alter the characters accordingly.
  • His most influential work was 'A Christmas Carol'.
  • He worked hard at developing interesting names for his characters, for example Mr Murdstone in 'David Copperfield' he made from 'murder' and 'stony' coldness.
  • Worked closely with illustrators so his visions were portrayed just right.
  • Quite a few of the names he gave to his characters have been taken into everyday life to describe people representing similar character traits to them, for example calling someone a Scrooge after Ebenezer Scrooge.
  • He became known for his very memorable characters - they became so memorable because many were inspired by real people in his life so he was able to describe/portray them to the detail.
  • Virginia Woolf in 1986 described his characters as 'Characters who exist not in the detail, not accurately or exactly, but abundantly in a cluster of wild yet extraordinary revealing remarks.'.
I found the last point/quote particularly interesting, I had known that Dickens' characters and story's have been used a lot but I hadn't ever quite understood how people could get such different interpretations to them.. Virginia Woolf's quote now makes me realise! The characters are so open to interpretation because they are not described (looks wise) much but are portrayed by character traits and what they say instead, this allows the reader to conjurer up their own image of the character without affecting the story that much.

Tuesday, 19 February 2013

Practicing injuries



I researched injuries related to domestic violence so that I could properly understand and portray what Estella would have gone through. I decided to try out a black eye, a cut lip and a hand print around the neck for my look. I tried to do more of a older yellowy black eye this time to see how that would look, I think it worked better as an older bruise for this look and I'll use it for my final look for Estella. The cut lip was ok but the hand neck print didn't work very well, I don't think I'll use either of them for my final look because the lip would have been quite easily hidden (which my Estella would have done because she has been taught to take care of her appearance) and the hand print didn't look realistic enough and so would have looked out of place.

LFW 2013 Giles Deacon


So whilst procrastinating and browsing Facebook I came across this photo that Elle magazine had posted of the Giles Deacon collection at London Fashion Week, and it instantly reminded me of this project! I reminds me a bit of Miss Havisham with disheveled hair, a white (almost bridal) dress and an old, tired and gaunt looking face, however it still has an element of beauty which is what I feel Miss Havisham has too. I also had a look about what was said about the collection and I found that the inspiration was 'Black Adder', I have to admit that wasn't what I was expecting but it was interesting none the less.
It was this particular look/photo that reminded me of Miss Havisham but the rest of the collection still used the same sort of make-up, click here to see the rest of the collection.

Storyboards on Pintrest

My storyboards for Estella and Miss Havisham on Pintrest. (click on the names to open the storyboards)

Tuesday, 12 February 2013

Interpretations

I really like seeing other peoples interpretations of characters but you have to be careful to make sure they don't influence them too much! so far I have looked at/thought about the styling for the most recent production of Great Expectations, the BBC production of Great Expectations and ofcourseee the original book by Charles Dickens. 
I think out of the most recent production and the BBC version i prefer the character interpretations from the BBC version, they seem more interesting to me somehow. One of the things I particularly like and want to think about using is the almost fluffy texture of the back of Miss Havishams hair, it looks slept on and un-cared for and I think it gives a nice contrast to her strong quite cold personality. In the more recent version I think the use of the vale and fabric to add volume and detail is really effective and is again something I might consider for my look, if i'm honest the reason i'm not so keen on this interpretation is because i find it very difficult to see the character as not just another side to Helena Bonham Carter, I can appreciate the part and the interpretation the film has as a whole but i find it more difficult to pick the character apart individually if that makes any sense! 
I think I have found the original story/book the most useful for creating my own interpretation because there are only words for me to think about in my own way, no images distracting me (which is rare for me to say because I love a good distraction!), it has allowed me to clearly just imaging what I think the characters look like and then improve them with other ideas rather than starting with too much of a defined idea. Personally I think that Miss Havisham is quite old, i'm not entirely sure why but that is just the impression I got and how i imagined her. I think Estella is in her late teens because she still seems quite young and is easily influenced by Miss Havisham but is still old enough to be having a relationship etc. 
Next thing to think about is picking models that will match with the ages I think the characters are..

Victorian fashion




















Womens fashion
- 'romantic' look
- echoed elizabethan elements at the beginning of the 1800's, puffed and slashed sleeves etc
- rich colours and/or pastel colours 
- tight and corseted
- tight top, widening skirt, puffed out sleeves
- flowers and ribbon in hair and on hats
- hats (inc feathers too)

Mens Fashion
- wool breadcloth - could be more easily molded then floaty fabrics
- rich colours and/or pastel colours
- very fitted/tailored clothing (for upper class)
- hats

Womens hair and make up
- minimal and still quite pale face/skin
- up do's
- ringlets
- curls/rolls
- accessories such as ribbons or flowers

(Images from 'Costume and Fashion' by James Laver)

The lives of Victorian women


I researched the lives of Victorian women because I wanted to further understand their lifestyle and think about what it would have been like to be them. I used books from the library to gather my research and i found 'Victorian Women' by Joan Perkin particularly useful. I got the picture above from 'Victorian Values' edited by Gordon Marsden, the painting is named 'The Children's Holiday' by Holman Hunt, I thought it was an interesting painting because it seems to show the role of a middle-class Victorian woman almost perfectly  looking after her children and dog (on her own, without her husband) whilst keeping up appearances,  the name of the painting is also interesting because its not the woman's holiday or the family's holiday but the children's holiday, even though she is clearly there too..
Childhood
The first thing I found out was that girls were seen as less important "Had it been a male the matter would be more acceptable" Karl Marx to Engels on the birth of his daughter in 1855.. HOW RUDE!! (sorry the girl power part of my brain had an outbreak!) I guess it just goes to show how different things are these days fortunately. Providing a son was top priority for women to please her husband so their family name could continue, many women had to endure lots of pregnancy's in hope of having a boy. Daughters were appreciated in aristocratic families because they could comfort and look after their parents in old age, this though contributed in the fact that the high amount of disease and illness around was spread to the women looking after their family members when they were ill. 
Many parents handed over their children (both part-time and full-time) to wealthy governesses to nanny, nurse and help out in general. In the large houses of the wealthy, children were restricted to certain areas of the house until they had reached a certain age and girls didn't go to school, instead they were taught at home by tutors.
Marriage
Girls needed permission from their parents to marry until they were 21, this gave the girls parents a chance to make sure they had a suitable partner etc, when the women were often paired up and mostly preferred to be with men of similar social class. Marriage and children were the life plan, often marriage was after pregnancy or the birth of the couples first child, sex was also seen as a marital duty.
Lifestyle
For the poor the living conditions were often dirty, busy, crowded and polluted. The women were expected to make sure their houses were well kept and they had to put their families needs before their own. A mans view of a woman/his wife was that she should be decoratively idle, sexually passive, pure of heart, religious and self sacrificing. Unmarried women were very much independent and married women were very much dependent on their husbands, this would often lead to utter meltdown when their husbands died leaving them with no support with money, their children or their emotions (a lot of women were widowed quite young too). There was a very clear divide between social classes and the upper class often set the tone for fashions, manners, habits and hobbies. Victorian women viewed growing old as a 'calamity' because they were valued  when they were young, beautiful and capable of baring children, whereas in old age they became old, ugly and baron. 

I thought I knew more about the Victorians than I did so this has been a very helpful, the women had it very tough and their lives were heavily molded by society and social statuses. My research should help me to design my looks better now that I know more about what Estella and Miss Havisham would have been living in/through.

Tuesday, 5 February 2013

First ideas about Estella


I found these two paintings while browsing the Victorian section of the BBC's 'Your Paintings', they both reminded me of what my first idea for Estella would be, a very prim and proper young woman with something behind the eyes. They are both by William Powell Frith c.1851, the first is called A Royal Princess and the second is called Annie Gambart, I haven't been able to find out any other information about them yet though. 
They both remind me of my first idea for Estella for the same reasons, both subjects look young, prim and proper, this reminds me of Estella because I see Miss Havisham bringing her up to look like what she would like to look like (trying to live her own life through Estella), being taught to take great care of her appearance and to always remain composed. I also think that these painting are representative of Estella because I think they both have something going on/something deeper behind the eyes, I think that Estella would be quite a complicated person because of the way she has been brought up and who she was brought up by, she opinions on things may also have been suppressed by how Miss Havisham has taught her to be like and what to think.
Lastly I think that Miss Havisham has made Estella look attractive because she wants her to be loved (this is also shown in her speech in the book), in much the same way of her appearance she wants her to be loved because that is something she never fully achieved for herself.

Great Expectations book arrived, I could be here for a while..

Great Expectations arrived earlier, I know the story roughly but decided I need to read it properly to fully get myself into this project. Getting a parcel in the post is always exciting but my excitement was quickly trampled on when I saw how small the writing is and how many pages there are, having not really been a book reading kinda gal in the past it was quite a shock, guess that's going to have to change haha! 
Here goes.. 

Bruises and Crimping

1. My first attempt at a black eye, 2. A real black eye found on Google.
Our first technical lesson for this project was Black eyes, bruises, grazes and crimping/victorian up-do, we learnt these so that we can use them for our characters if we want. Bruises were definitely harder than I thought which proved to me how important observing real bruises and injuries is important to make sure they look realistic. Quite conveniently I had fallen over a few days before the class and had a massive multi-coloured bruise on my knee so I took a picture at different stages of the healing process so that I could use them for future reference, it really hurt though so i'm glad I could get some good out of it! 

Sunday, 3 February 2013

So many mustaches..


We had a visit by the lovely Kate Benton from PAM and her many mustaches during the first week of the project which was a very exciting way to start it off! I wanted to make the most of the time we had with her so I put my multitasking abilities to good use by writing notes with one hand, holding my phone still with the other hand to film the demonstrations and taking pictures with my SLR too! 
She showed us a few techniques that she thought were relevant to our project including, ageing skin, wrinkles, and putting on a wig. 
1. Applying and blending a wig, 2. Face before ageing, 3. Creating wrinkles, 4. Face after ageing.
The skills she taught us will definitely help me with this project but also a lot of the things she said will help too, she talked about really looking at peoples skins when out to really think about the colours in the skin and what ageing really looks like not just how you think it does. I'll definitely try and look at peoples skins and hair more closely (without looking like too much of a weirdo) when just out and about now so that I can make ageing as realistic as I can. 

She also showed us her continuity files for her most recent work which was really interesting because I didn't appreciate the extent of how precisely it was controlled. It's all the things you don't even register when watching a film or programme but if they weren't taken great care of everyone would notice!

I gained a lot from her visit, skills that will help with my project, tips for life, so many notes (which I'm slowly trying to decode because I was scribbling so fast) and techniques videoed for future reference. Big thank you to Kate Benton, my brain was in information overload by the end of the session but I really enjoyed it!

New project, new blog.


So, a whole new blog devoted to this project.. I can't tell if i'm more excited or daunted!

     Our brief in a nutshell is to create our own interpretation look for both Estella and Miss Havisham from Great Expectations, showcasing hair and makeup skills we're learning along the way and then pitch our ideas. I was quite excited about this project when we were introduced to it, I think it'll be interesting to try out some completely new techniques, experiment with age and see how different all our interpretations of the same characters will be. The thing I'm finding most challenging at the moment is containing all the snippets of ideas in my head and trying to sift through them in an organised manner! I'm looking forward to finding out more about the characters, seeing how other productions have portrayed them, and also to building my own interpretation of the characters.
      I'm also looking forward to learning Victorian hair (I'm finding hair more interesting than i had first thought) and also learning different aging techniques etc.
     Our visit from Kate Benton from PAM was very inspiring, might write a post about it soon actually as I found it very interesting and thought it was a good kick start to the project!

    Oh and just a quick explanation of the name of this blog, I decided I didn't want to just call it Great Expectations project or something like that because personally I didn't find that very inspiring.. I decided on "Love her, love her, love her." because I thought it was quite a poignant line from the book and also a line which I thought would be well known or memorable by readers of the book. I also picked it because I wanted to use something that would encourage me to think about what lines like that meant to the characters.. hmmmm...